If you've been online lately, you've seen "deadstock" pop up everywhere.
So naturally, the discourse is: is this just another micro trend?
No. And here's why!
First, what is deadstock?
Deadstock is unused fabric that's been left over: from mills that made too much, brands that cancelled orders, went out of business, or designers who ordered more than they needed. It's brand-new material that would otherwise be discarded. It can also include leftover notions like zippers and buttons. We are talking here specifically about un-used, pre-consumer materials which end up being either incinerated, tossed to landfills or in some rare cases recycled or redistributed.
Why does it exist?
Overproduction is built into the system. Manufacturers have high minimum orders, brands order in bulk, forecasts miss, and collections change. The leftovers have to go somewhere and there is limited storage space. Recycling is optional and can be expensive. Deadstock isn't a niche. It's a symptom of how the whole industry runs. Factories will throw out dumpsters full of thread cones, TONNES of fabric sample fabrics, extra yardage and so much more. A second reason why this is so commonplace is that there aren’t many “middlemen” in the industry to go collect and redistribute these materials to smaller scale brands and individual sewists who could use them.
Micro trends vs. materials
A micro trend is an aesthetic that spikes and disappears in weeks: a colour, a silhouette, a viral outfit formula. Deadstock is a source. It's where the material comes from, not what it looks like. You can make anything from deadstock: a tailored blazer, a bag, a patchwork jacket. Aesthetics come and go. The pile of unused fabric isn't going anywhere.
Why it isn't a fad
- The supply keeps growing. As long as overproduction exists, so does deadstock.
- It saves resources. Using existing fabric avoids making more new material.
- It makes unique pieces. Limited yardage means limited runs, so your piece isn't everywhere.
- It has a story. Every roll has a history, and so does everything made from it.
The greenwashing warning
Brands will absolutely slap "deadstock" on a collection for marketing. Here's how to tell what's real: ask where the fabric came from, how much was used, and whether the brand can tell you. Real deadstock work is specific and a little messy. Vague claims and huge production runs are red flags. Using deadstock materials comes with many challenges. The colours and materials are limited and come in very small quantities. Sometimes the fibre content can be unknown. This is not great when you are trying to work fast and cheap. You have to allow time to slow down and put extra time and resources into doing it the less-convenient, more sustainable way.
How we use deadstock materials in the Uni Design Studio
We don’t believe in working with new material, ever. There is literally SO much out there. We try to use only materials that are going to be thrown out like scraps from designers cutting room floor, our own production offcuts, sweaters with holes in them, surplus materials from thrift stores or jeans from recycling centres. However when we want to find a specific type of fabric or colour, sometimes we don’t want to leave that up to chance so we opt to use deadstock materials to compliment our other sources of upcycled textiles. We mainly use deadstock sweater fleece for hoodies, our most popular design. We collect deadstock notions too, because we like the details to have a story as well. Sometimes we just need to find 20 units of the same size of zipper. There are two deadstock suppliers here in Vancouver and both are amazing small businesses / ngo’s we choose to work with because they really align with our values. They are Our Social Fabric, a volunteer run Canadian non-profit and Fabcycle, a woman founded & run small business.
Treat it as a practice
Deadstock is a decision about where your clothes come from. Trends will keep cycling through your feed, but the question of what we do with all the stuff we've already made isn't going away.
So no, it's not a micro trend. It's a macro problem, and a really beautiful solution, as long as it's being done with intention and from the right source. Anything is better than producing new materials in our opinion.
Come see what deadstock looks like in person at our 88 West 8th Ave showroom, or follow @unidesign_world to see what we're making next.